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bLue
ANTI-POSTWHORES
Joined: May 13 2004
Posts: 7724
Feedback: 1
Location: my own little world
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 Posted: Sun Jan 08, 2006 4:38 pm Post subject: Ultimate Customizing Guide (Read First) |
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Table of Contents
#1. Angelus Distributor List
#2. C2's FAQ
#3 b!o's guide to basic customization
#4 bLue's guide to basic customization
#5 bLue's guide to making angelus work
#6 official tongue stuffing guide
#7 bLue's guide to adding fabric
#8 chamaleon's guide to canvas
#9 c2's transparency info
#10 official paint mixing guide
#11 list of mediums and additives
#12 random tips and tricks
#13 woodburning guide (not yet available)
#14 nike basketball templates (nike box template)
#15 air jordan templates
#16 stencils guide (great for making tshirts as well!)
#17 starting your own basic clothing line
#18 step by step process on hard-line images
#19 shoe deconstruction/working with clear vinyl
#20 updates and misc.
#1 Angelus Distributor List
online sellers
www.caning.com - known for deals with 1oz. bottles, offer great deals if you buy them in a dozen and offer a decent choice in color
www.turtlefeathers.net - sell 4oz. bottles as well as many other useful angelus products. probably best variety of color choice. decent prices but shipping is usually pricey
www.wardrobesupplies.com - ny based which also welcomes walk-ins. another varied selection of color along with a few other products. sells 4 oz. bottles
*caning and turtlefeathers are known to ship overseas*
store locations
please check out the angelus distributor list at http://angelusshoepolish.com/distrib.html
*note that many stores in angelus's official site are known to carry "angelus products" and may not actually have leather paint in stock. most listings come with a phone number or fax and it is recommended that you at least contact the store to check for paint availability*
#2 C2's FAQ
Q:What is the best paint for leather shoes?
A: Angelus leather paint, there is a complete sticky in the forum about this product.
Q: How do people engrave on shoes, such as add gator skin?
A: Woodburing Pen or Soldering Iron. These are widely available online or in arts or crafts stores. Please check eBay, as I bought mine off of there.
Q: How do people add fabric or denim to shoes?
A: Make a stencil by masking off the area with masking tape and cuting it out with an exacto knife to make a precise stencil. Trace onto your fabric, cut out precisely, glue on with fabric glue. (people prefer GOOP)
Q: How do people add lettering to shoes?
A: Vinyl letter stickers are available at any arts and crafts store. Lay down your desired base coat for the color of the lettering, lay down your stickers, add you second color direclty over the stickers, remove carefully.
Q: Can you paint midsoles? If so is there any suggested paint?
A: Yes you can paint midsoles, but they WILL crack over time. At this point there is no perfect paint for midsoles but people are experimenting.
Q: How do you change the color of suede?
A: Angelus leather dye works best, but must be applied with extreme caution as it will bleed.
Q: How do people make such clean edges/designs?
A: Most people have developed enough skill through practice to creat clean designs by hand. This will take time! However, people can mask to achieve straight lines or edges.
Q: How do you make camo, elephant print, safari, etc...
A: Search google for images of samples that have been produced. Lay down your base coat color and add your secondary or third colors on top.
Q: How do I add images on fabric to my customs?
A: Paper that can be printed directly through an inkjet printer.(Iron on transfers) This can be purchased online or at office supplies stores. Print your image on the paper, iron onto your fabric, then cut and glue onto your shoes.
Q: What do Angelus Paint Dullers and Varnishes do?
A: Paint duller can be added directly to your paint to deminish the gloss it comes with and accomplishes a factory produced look. Varnishes can be added after you are done painting to add a glossy/shiny look to your paint to accomplish a patent leather look.
Q: How do I get glow in the dark paint?
A: Buy glow in the dark pigment powwder made for acrylic paints and add it to Angelus Neutral leather paint. This powder is available certain places online.
Q: What should I use to prepare the shoes and how do I know if they are prepared correctly?
A: Pure acetone is the strongest and most effective way to remove factory finishes for the best results in customizing. I personally use cotton balls for larger areas and cotton q-tips for smaller areas that are dipped in acetone to prepare my customs. Apply a good amount of pressure and scrub, but not so hard that you remove the texture of the leather. Some people believe you must make the leather turn grey for it to be prepared, but aslong as the finish is off, you're good to go.
Q: How do I make my own shirts?
A: Some people hand paint their shirts, other use iron on transfer paper, and the rich folks have screenprinted or silkscreeners.
Q: How do you change the color of the inside of shoes?
A: If mesh like on many AF1s, you may paint it with acrylic paint, but it will become stiff. If leather, paint it like any other leather part of the shoe with proper preparation.
Q: How do I achieve a fade effect? (i.e. Haze Dunks)
A: Airbrushing, experiment, basic common knowledge to most so I won't go in detail.
Q: Is shoe wax/water repellant needed to be applied after finishing a custom?
A: No, angelus paint is water proff, but it doesn't hurt, just dont spray on too much.
Q: How do I achieve fine detail/small thin lines?
A: Using a brush that comes to a small point and applying barely any pressure can get you those perfect details.
Q: Is createx a usable paint for customizing shoes?
A: I've heard it is and it isn't. I have never used it and I see no reason why anyone would becasue angelus works just fine.
Q: Can I throw my shoes in a washing machine to clean them/white up the mesh?
A: I have heard of great stories and horror stories from this. I reccommend against it as the mositure that will be left in the shoes will deterioate the soles. As for how clean you shoes get, don't expect miracles. Be sure to add the proper detergent and put the shoes in separate pillow cases.
Q: Will customs with printed canvas on them last through wear in the rain, snow, etc.?
A: If you follow the correct proceedures, even ironed on canvas should last because they are made to even go through the washing machine with no bleeding.
Q:How do I paint the "Nike Air" stitching on the back of Air Force Ones?
A: Use a fine tiped brush and apply the paint thinly. Take your time!
Q: How can I avoid leaving burn marks in the leather?
A: Since it is a woodBURNING pen, it will leave dark burn lines on certain shoes and colors. If you want to get rid of these, paint over them with the same color.
Q: How do I make custom tags like Nikes?
A: Ask your local embroidey shop for an estimate of prices and what can be done. Some screenprinters also do this...
Q: Where can you buy Goop (the glue)?
A: I personally go to a store called JoAnns Fabrics, Ive heard of people going to other arts and cratfs stores such as Micheals for things such as goop also.
Q: Who on ISS airbrushes?
A: C2, Retro!nk, EL, Gambino, Jor1, just to name a few that come to my mind first.
Q: Where can I find silica packets to buy?
A: Google Search...
Q: How do I make the splatter effect?
A: Mask off anywhere you dont want paint to be. Then there are several ways to apply the splatter, some drop it from brushes at a high point and let gravity to the work. Some people goop in on their brushes and flick or throw it at the shoes. Some also blow the paint out of a straw to get the job done.
Q: When to add varnish/gloss/waterproofer?
A: Anytime after your paint has dried.
Q: Will shoe polish come off in the rain/snow?
A: Check the label to see if it is waterproof, if not, add waterproofer.
Q: How do I paint patent leather?
A: I myself have never heard a solid fool proof way yet. Anyone got one, feel free to let me know, if not, I would reccomment not painting it.
Q: Where can I purchase Carbon Fiber?
A: It is available online in many stores, eBay, and some people have said they found it at local craft stores.
Q: Where can I buy Nike SB Laces?
A: I know for sure one seller on eBay that always had some available with BIN.
Q: How deep do I burn when trying to make gator/elephant print?
A: Quoted By Chameleon:
"To start off with, there is no answer. There is no measurement or depth gage for you to go by. There are no standards. No color markers or changes in the smell of the burning leather. If the alligator skin is done properly, it should not be even. Much like real alligator skin it should not compltely symmertical. There are highs and lows in the grain. To use the coin term "scales" loosely, there should not be in a uniform pattern. Experiment with it. That could quite possibly be the best info you could get regarding the croc pattern.
With that said, there are many customs ive seen out there that have a simple checker board pattern that looks very unauthentic. For that, press the hot woodburning pen into the leather and drag it in a slow, straight, steady line. Repeat if necessary. "
Let the clean out begin...
Your welcome,
C2 and Chameleon (Keep up the good stuff!)
#3 b ! o h a z R D's guide to customization
Ok for newbs who feel they dont hav to read stickies. Here it is..... materials, steps, and tips ALL IN ONE THREAD for your PLEASURE! (ps. dont make another thread asking us)
GOOD COLORS TO GET AS A STARTERS KIT:
-black
-white
-red
-yellow
-blue
TO PAINT SHOES:::::
Materials:
-Angelus Leather PAINT
-Acetone (or shoe preparer) (home depot or hardware stores)
-Brushes (Medium, Fine, and Broad) (art stores)Buy the type called "shader" brushes
-Cotton Balls (for acetone) (pharmacies)
-Finish Coat (Waxy layer) (foot locker, shoe repair shops)
LEATHER MAY DIFFER FROM DIFFERENT SHOES. Feel the leather after acetoning and make sure the feel is NOT slippery. It should feel semi-rough and un-slippery.
(For flat colors add Liquitex Textile Medium (or matte) to your paint...maybe a 3:1 ratio of paint to medium. for gloss coat and gloss medium to the mixture)
PROCEDURE:
Step 1: Put Acetone on the Cotton Ball (be careful this ish is harmful use gloves) and rub area where you will apply paint. Make sure the waxy layer is off the leather (it will turn grey.. if not look at the cotton ball and if there is a paste like substance it is the waxy layer) Sometimes it will not be grey. Feel the surface of the leather to make sure it is not slippery. If the leather feels slippery, then you must acetone more.
***This is relli an important step in the process of customization in general. Cleaning the object is always important for the durability of the job. Be sure to clean it very well***
Step 2: Get paint ready (mix colors for ur needs) Now take your brush and apply paint once to your area (it mite be uneven DONT WORRY) and make sure it isn't bumpy or relli thick. LET DRY
Step 3: Apply another coat of paint to the area (it should look better now but not completely the best) LET DRY
Step 4: Apply the last coat but put the least amount of paint on your brush and this will be the last layer of paint. LET DRY.
Step 5: This step is optional. Angelus alreadi has a waterproofed coat but for a professional finish spray a waxy layer on the paint area. this will not make it shiny or dull and will not affect the colors.
NOTES:
*** waxy layer is another term for a waterproofer.***
-If you would like to use dyes, it is not recommended. Dye is if you would wanna fix up some old black shoes. Paints enable you to create custom colors.
::::notes on COLORS::::
-Primary colors: RED BLUE YELLOW.
-Neutral colors: BLACK WHITE GREY (get these 6 colors as the starters kit)
-MIXING IRREGULAR COLORS: here are sum irregular colors that u mite run into while tryin to mix
-TO GET TAN/GUM--- 65% yellow_30% brown_3%white_2%orange
-TO GET LIGHT RED--- 85% red_22% orange_3% white
-TO GET CAROLINA BLUE--- 65% blue_33% white_2% magenta(ppl mite object to this. but trust me. if u just mix 50% blue and 50% white with angelus u will get a blue more on the aqua side)
-TO GET LIME GREEN--- 85% green_15% yellow
:::notes on PAINTING::: (tips)
-do NOT paint in ONE thick coat. DO paint several thin coats
-DO wipe brush on side of jar after dipping in paint. This prevents thick, drippy, coats.
-DO use medium brush when painting areas that are not small nor big. (eg a swoosh)
-if u wish to paint the midsole, please understand that it will NOT stay on the rubber for a lasted amount of time and MAY crack. But if you do not care (or if you would just like to display them) you can use angelus paints to paint the midsole. but clean the surface well and paints about 5 coats. THen spray (or apply) varnish (longer lasting protection) after you are finish painting the midsole. Again, please note it is not recommended you paint the midsoles.
-if you would like to change the color of the stitching on the shoe (such as on the NIKE AIR sign on the back of an AF1, you must noe that the stichting will harden once painted on. Use a fine tipped brush for this or a fine tipped paint marker.
-PAINTING LOGOS: one material needed. TALENT
-DO use creativity when you are customizing.
-DO put alot of effort when you are customizing. Even if u are sloppy, if you show alot of effort and thought into your sneaker you wont get clowned on. if you just put sum paint on a swoosh and toe, and say u customized a sneaker, thats not showing that u put alot of time into ur sneaker.
:::notes on CUSTOM ITEMS:::
-custom boxes. turn a box inside out. and let ur imagination do the rest.
-shirts. if u want to paint a shirt. u can use basically any kind of paint except for watercolors.
::notes to NEWBIES:::
-do NOT post questions that hav been answered here
-do NOT gravedig
-do NOT ask stupid questions
-DO show interest
SUEDE: Can be dyed using fabric dye, or watered down paint. It will harden if you use too much.
DONE.
DAMN I WASNT THIS SPOILED WEN I WAS GETTING INTO CUSTOMIZING!
Instyleshoes forum and b!ohazrd do not take any responsibility for anything you do while doing this procedure. anything u do is your responsibilty and your actions.
Last edited by bLue on Tue May 27, 2008 1:51 pm; edited 9 times in total |
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bLue
ANTI-POSTWHORES
Joined: May 13 2004
Posts: 7724
Feedback: 1
Location: my own little world
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| Posted: Sun Jan 08, 2006 5:21 pm Post subject: |
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#4 bLue's guide to customization
Materials
alcohol
acetone
cotton(lots of it)
paint
brushes of your choice
I've broken it down into two parts: prepping and painting. I feel both are equivalent in importance and time should be spent on both.
Prepping
This is what you should spend your time on. Your paintjob may be the greatest, but will not matter if it does not hold up.
Begin by cleaning the shoe with alcohol, esp. if it has been used. It may be difficult to clean the shoe after you have painted.
Determine where you will be painting. Choose now to get it out of your way. If you paint, it will be hard to go back and prep an area close to it.
Now take your acetone. This stuff can be found in any of your local hardware stores and is fairly inexpensive. However, this is heavy duty stuff so wear gloves and work in a well ventilated area.
I use an old glass cup or glass tray here. Don't use plastics, acetone will melt right through it. I put some cottonballs in and pour the acetone in it. I do this so i get a good amount of acetone in the cotton but I keep them from becoming dripping wet. You will be using a lot of cotton so I hope you stocked up.
When prepping, rub the acetone over the shoe to remove the factory finish. When you rub, keep one hand inside the shoe and press against the area you are wiping. You should be creating a sandwich effect with your hands and the shoe and cottonball in between. It is important to press hard on the inside, and rub hard on the outside to really get in and clean the leather. Change your cottonballs frequently. With black shoes it is easy bc your cottonballs should turn black. But with white it is very difficult. If you are using one cottonball the whole time, you are basically exhausting the acetone in there and respreading the wax finish back all over the shoe. If you apply tons of pressure, you should have no trouble in seeing the prepped results.
Below I have a picture of the pressure points of a shoe that should be concentrated on the most. These areas are susceptible to the most bending and creasing and therefore should be cleaned properly. This does not mean you should neglect the other areas of the shoe.
Some use an abrasive sponge to prep. Simply soak the cotton in acetone and sandwich it in between the sponge. Be careful with this method and should only be used in the large open areas away from creasing and edges. If you use this method, you run the risk of fraying stitching, dying the edges green or the color of the sponge, or scratching of nonleather parts.
How to tell if your shoe is prepped
Usually, the leather will turn grey. However, that is not always the sign of prepped leather. Simply run your finger through the leather. If you feel resistance, then it is ready. If it is smooth or feels waxy, it still is not ready. It is still very hard to determine so it is best that you wait for visual proof.
Painting
Before you begin painting, clean the shoe with alcohol again. Make sure there is no dust, hair or cotton strands from the prepping stage.
Now it is time to paint. Keep your brushes damp as you will need to paint in smooth thin layers.
To apply the layer of paint, get a decent amount of paint, don't bother wiping as you need a sufficient amount to pull the paint but don't dip the entire bristle head into the paint.
Apply the paint and pull the brush throughout the entire surface. It's best to start on the edges so early coats won't be overlapping if you start on the middle. Make sure first coat is thin and even. It should look very transparent and blotchy but it's alright.
Let it dry. Wait about 30 minutes. Even if it feels dry, it may not be. The paint needs not just to dry but bond as well.
Add a second coat. Wait. Keep following the process until the surface looks solid. If you get some paint on another area, just clean it off with alcohol and a qtip.
After you paint the final coat, you should wait 24 hours until you wear them. Why? There is a big difference between drying time and curing time. The curing stage is the time when the paint formula fully settles in order to bond. Just because it is dry, does not mean it has cured. Do not mistake the two.
By not letting the final coat cure, you run the risk of ruining the paintjob by introducing other additives such as nonpotable water, chemicals, and abrasions which can all ruin in the paintjob immediately or in the longrun.
You can use a finish coat. There are many brands available and can be used by spraying, airbrushing, applying with rag, or applying with brush.
Angelus does not require it (it's waterproofed already). If you do use it, it usually needs 2 coats max and is applied with the same manner (thin, even coats) as painting.
Enjoy your sneakers and be creative.
#5 bLue's guide to making Angelus work
This remains one of the most frequent questions I receive. Angelus is a very durable paint and will not chip, crack, fade, or peel if used properly.
I will post some possible reasons as to why your angelus is cracking.
#1. Layers are too thick - This should be mastered in customs101. Paint in many thin coats instead of a few thick ones blah blah blah.
#2. Timing in between coats - I know this is a common mispractice. Just because it "feels" dry doesn't mean that it is. What's going on with the layer is that the paint is actually bonding with the leather, becoming a part of it. If you're painting coats on top of ones that haven't bonded yet, you're basically doing the same as one huge thick layer. When I say wait for some time, I mean wait. Twenty/thirty minutes may seem long but it's better safe than sorry. Go paint, take a break, watch TV, go out and relax. I seriously hope you guys aren't watching your shoes dry, I don't want shoe customizing to be the leading reason for the rise of ADD. In some cases, paint will take longer to dry. From personal experience, on hot humid days, paint can take up to 45minutes-an hour to dry. In these cases you need to test it out. Slide your finger throught the painted area. If it feels like factory leather and runs through smoothly, then you're good. If there is any remote oily, moist residue, or if it feels slick, then it needs to dry more.
Again, there is a major difference between drying time and curing time. The curing stage takes place after you have completed painting altogether.The curing stage is the time when the paint formula fully settles in order to bond. Just because it is dry, does not mean it has cured. Do not mistake the two. Give your pair ample amount of time to cure after completing and before wearing.
#3 Improper Prepping - I think this is THE MOST IMPORTANT step in painting a shoe. It doesn't matter what you put on it. If it's cracked, it's destroyed. So take as much time with the cotton balls and acetone as with the brush and paint. Not all shoes turn grey, however. Nike shoes generally do since they use cheaper leather. To tell with other shoes is to a do a before and after test. Run your finger through the unprepped leather. It should feel smooth all the way across. Now run your way back through prepped leather and you may feel a little more resistance. Also, constantly change your cottonballs. A lot of the time, when you don't switch up, you're rubbing a cottonball saturated in the melted factory protective layer. So as you glide back and forth you may actually just be adding the wax layer back on other areas. Check out my full guide above so that you prep appropriately.
#4 Brush Stroke - The problem may actually lie in the manner of how you apply the paint. The basic coloring should be the first thing to master. If you see streaks and uneven patches, then you are far from ready. Start with a good amount of paint on your brush, don't bother wiping it on the side of the bottle but don't cover the entire head of bristles with paint. Apply it to the shoe in long, smooth strides. If you see a collection of paint on one area, simply pull it throughout the entire shoe until the entire area is smooth. Don't worry about the look early on as it will greatly improve with more coats.
#5 Thick Paint - If it helps, thin the paint out. The basic diluter is potable water (water you can drink). I stay away from tap water as there may be some chemicals in the water that may mess with the paint formula. Limit the amount of water used. Most acrylics used are already water based. However, too much may result in a weaker formula as the water will still separate and evaporate from the mixture over time. Angelus neutral can also be used to thin as well as extend the amount of paint. Just be careful as it will slowly lighten the shade. Alcohol is another alternative as well as acetone for standard acrylics.
#6 Faulty Brushes - This is easy, the softer the better. Don't waste your pennies on cheaper brushes that are hard and stiff as you are only hurting yourself. A person can only be so good without the proper materials, otherwise we'd have more finger painters. Also, I like to keep my brushes damp the whole time. I keep a cup of water by me all the the time and am constantly dipping my brush to clean it. Also keep a small rag to wipe your soaked brush. Keep it damp but don't too wet as the water will just make the paint extremely thin and have it run everywhere.
#7 Elements - Before you even paint, you should clean the shoe before and after prepping. Strands of hair and dust that clump up in your paint is not only unattractive, but causes a chain of headaches once you try to get it out after the paint has settled. Also, extreme heat is your enemy. Put it on top of a radiator or baking windowsill and you will see not just then but for some time afterwords.
#8 Effort - If you halfass through the job, your work will show. The final product is a representation of the effort you actually put into it. Take your time and pay attention to detail, your work will progress. Become sloppy and rush, your work will do a complete 180.
I hope this helps to all of those who have asked this question. Hopefully this will limit the number of times I am asked this.
Last edited by bLue on Mon Jan 08, 2007 12:22 pm; edited 5 times in total |
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bLue
ANTI-POSTWHORES
Joined: May 13 2004
Posts: 7724
Feedback: 1
Location: my own little world
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| Posted: Sun Jan 08, 2006 5:22 pm Post subject: |
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#6 official tongue stuffing guide
link - http://www.howsyouredge.com/sneakers/index.html
Here's everything you want/need to know about stuffing tongues.
Tools required:
Exacto Knife or Thread Ripper
Tongue stuffing material (I used Poly-fil™ Premium Polyester Fiberfill)
Thread and needle
Patience
Step 1:
Prepare kicks. Unlace them completely. Clean them up so you have a fresh kick to work with.
Step 2:
This step will be done in reverse later, so remember how the lace stay was attached.
Unstitch the lace stay, starting from the tongue underside. Remove all loose threads that remain on the underside or overside. Set the lace stay aside.
Step 3:
Unstitch the rows that hold the NIKE tag in place (if they exist). If the tongue is mesh, be very careful to only cut stitch threads and not tongue threads. Set the NIKE tag aside.
Step 4:
With the exacto knife or thread ripper, cut a 1 inch hole along the line left by the upper stitch row. By cutting a hole in this location, after sewing the tag back on, this hole (sewn up) will be out of sight.
Step 5:
Starting with the hole, begin to peel the inner layers of the tongue apart. There should be two layers with minimal glue holding them together. Just push down with your fingers making sure to fully separate the layers, including all the corners.
Step 6:
Take the stuffing material, and stuff that tongue. For now, this is just for proper fitting.
Step 7:
Remove the stuffing, and begin to reattach the lace stays and tag. The lace stay can be a hassle to sew back on. If you don't care, feel free to skip the next step.
Step 8:
Reattaching the lace stay. Recalling how the lace stay was originally attached, sew the lace stay back to the overside of the tongue ONLY. (If you can't recall how it was removed, sew the upper lace stay section first, then the bottom section). Do not sew through the underside of the tongue.
Step 9:
Reattaching the NIKE tag. To begin, you must sew the tag on the overside of the tongue. Again, do not sew through the underside of the tongue.
Step 10:
Stuff that tongue with the stuffing material set aside from earlier.
Step 11:
Sew that hole up. Do not sew into the overside of the tongue. Be careful to make a smooth seam or a ridge will rub against your ankle/foot when you walk. That could be annoying.
Step 12:
Now flip the tag over to the underside and sew that guy down. This seam will be visible to yourself and others if you are showing your handiwork off, so make sure to do this one real well.
Step 13:
Stand back and realize you have finished one shoe. Then go back to Step 1 on the other shoe.
#7 bLue's guide to adding fabric or denim
This is my in-depth guide on adding fabric or denim. It is seperated by two methods, glue-on and stitch-on.
Materials
-Masking Tape
-Exacto Knife (artistic blade)
-Fabric
-Fabric Glue/ShoeGoo
-Large Fabric Scissors
-Sewing Machine that can withstand bulk of shoe leather(stitch-on guide only)
Glue-On Guide
#1. Decide which panels of the shoe you wish to apply your fabric. When you have decided, it's time to make templates. Take your masking tape and put 2-3 layers of tape over the section. Don't worry if it's messy, you're gonna clean it up later. It's important to do 2 or 3 layers bc that will eliminate the possibility of having the template from falling apart. Once you have the area applied with masking tape, take your exacto knife and cut around the edges to get the shape of the area.
#2. At this point you should have a replica of the panel of the shoe in exact size and shape. Carefully take it off the shoe and put it on the fabric. Make sure you carefully place it so a quality image will be cut out (not someone missing a head or half of a word) and so that the fabric isn't wrinkled or folded under the tape which would cause it to be disfigured.
#3. Cut the fabric with the fabric scissors around the template. If you have the correct, large scissors, you will notice how easily and cleanly the cutting will be. If you don't, you're just going to have to suffer. It's important here to get it as close as the actual size and shape of the template.
#4. This part is recommended but not necessary. If you have all your pieces of fabric cut out into the shapes of the shoe, you should stitch a border around the cut fabric. This will eliminate frays and loose threads. Once it is stitched, use those handydandy fabric scissors n trim off whatever loose threads there are. They shouldn't be coming back.
#5. Time to put the fabric on the shoe. Take whatever adhesive you have and apply a thin layer to both the shoe and fabric. Before combining the toe, spread the glue around evenly so there are no bumps or lumps in concentrated areas. Carefully apply the fabric onto the shoe and even it out, again smoothing out wrinkles, lumps or bumps.
#6. Let em' dry and they're done.
Stitch-On Guide
This is where it gets tricky. Unless you know what you are doing, I highly suggest you take them to a specialized tailor or to a shoe repairman instead. This method requires dismantling of the shoe. I will not be held responsible for whatever damage that may occur during this process.
Follow Step #1 and #2 from above
#3. Basically the same above with one variation. When you cut your fabric, cut apprx. 1inch around the template.
#4. Now comes the messy part. Take your exacto knife or blade and you have to seperate the panel of the shoe you wish to apply fabric to. Just slip the blade under the top panel where the stitching is located and slowly slice the threads.
#5. You should now have a seperated shoe panel and an overlarge fabric template. Glue the fabric to the seperated panel like above. Since it was cut larger, you should have "flaps" hanging over. Simply fold those over and glue them to the other side of the panel.
#6. Stitch panels back to shoe with heavy duty sewing machine.
#8 chamaleon's guide to canvas
Grab a sewing machine, thread, fabric, masking tape, exacto knife, glue and some beers and you too can have some awesome looking customs in just 10 easy steps.
I reccomend using exacto knife or fabric scissors (not the dull things you cut paper with)
I reccomend using Shoe Goo
I reccomend staying away from Liquid Stitch
I reccomend Coronas
1. Lay the masking tape down on the section(s) you want covered by the fabric.
2. Cut the section out on the masking tape with the exacto knife (duh).
3. Place the cut out section onto the fabric.
4. Cut out the template with an exacto knife, or if you like trace it out with a pen and cut it out with some sharp fabric scissors (dont cut exactly on the border, its better to cut a bit bigger incase you make a mistake, you can always clean things up, but you can go back an add fabric) Also, if your sewing more than 1 panel together, leave about 1/2 inch or so so the seams will look clean (explain later.)
5. Lay the fabric up against the shoe, get your piccaso on. If everything matches up against the shoe then go onto the next step, if not, this is the time to get everything perfect. Use the scissors to clean up all the edges.
6a. Single Panel : Take a pencil and simple trace out where you want the stiching to be. Now, go over it with the sewing machine. Please note, if your doing any part of the shoe that touches the midsole, dont sew there, as there is no stiching along that side.
6b. Multiple Panels : A bit harder than if using a single panel. If you want all your panels to seamlessly blend, then flip your fabric over and sew all the joining seams. (All of this stitching will be on the inside and thus will make all the seams on the shoe "invisible" just like all the seams on a...*looks around*...pillow case). But wait, your not done. You still have to do step 6a now!
ALSO. In step 6b. you can add additional stitching. I cant remember which customizer did but it was their "jack the ripper" customs and they had red stiching crossing the toe box, so if you were wondering how to do that, this is where you would.
7. Apply a thin layer of glue to the shoe, and also to the inside of the fabric, use a paintbrush or something of the sort to spead it around. Dont add too much glue though, depending on the fabic, it may cause the colours to bleed. Make sure everything is set right.
8. Watch tv. (yes, this is a step. The step isnt, watch the shoes while the glue dries, or poke the shoes and move the panels around. Trying to get things perfect usually means you messing thngs up and having to start over. If you must watch the shoes, at least grab a damp paper towl and wipe the excess glue off.) If you see parts where its uneven, wait till its dry. Its much easier to cut when its dry and stiff.
9. Once its dried go over and make sure everything looks just right. Pull out the exacto knife again. Make sure everything is clean and there are no threads sticking out. Dont go overboard though.
10. Mail me the beers.
Last edited by bLue on Mon Jan 08, 2007 12:25 pm; edited 2 times in total |
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bLue
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| Posted: Sun Jan 08, 2006 5:45 pm Post subject: |
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#9 C2's transparency info
Below is a chart telling how opaque (ability to fill to a solid color) and how transparent certain Angelus Paint colors are.
1 = Very Good (2 coats solid over white)
2 = Average (3 - 4 coats solid over white)
3 = Poor (4+ coats solid over white)
N/A = Not yet used
Please note ,this is my opinion and I haven't used all the colors yet of the Angelus line.
These are based on how the paint comes stock, no special additions or mixtures.
A few are "highly educated guesses"
I am sure quality of the paint varies from bottle to bottle.
Please add any opinion or info you can.
I believe this will help people when they are looking to purchase paint.
Thanks,
C2
Bone - 2
Purple - 3
Orange - 2
Hot Pink - 2
Yellow - 3
Green - 3
Dark Taupe - 1
Sand - N/A
Fire Red - 3
Burgandy - 2
Silver - 3
Avacado - 1
Pink - 2
English Tan - N/A
Red - 3
Brown - 2
Light Green - 3
Scarlet Red - 3
Light Brown - 2
Shell Pink - 2
Lilac - 2
Beige - 1
Pale Blue - 2
Antique Gold - 3
Dark Green - 3
Taupe - 1
Mustard - N/A
Buttercup - 3
Chocolate - 2
Mist -2
Sapphire - 2
Plae Yellow - 1
Blue - 2
Tan - 1
Vanilla - 2
Copper - 3
Light Blue - 2
Grey - 1
Natural - 2
Dark Blue - 2
Navy Blue - 1
Light Grey - 2
Beige Taupe - 1
Cognac - N/A
Turquoise - 1
Brick - N/A
Grey Taupe - 1
Black - 1
White - 3
Saddle - N/A
Capazio Tan - N/A
Dark Brown - 2
Caramel - N/A
Rich Brown - 2
Bronze - 3
Violet - 3
Magenta - N/A
Dark Grey - 1
Champagne - N/A
Dark Bone - 1
Pewter - 3
#10 official paint mixing guide
TAN/GUM - 65% yellow_30% brown_3%white_2%orange
LIGHT RED - 85% red_22% orange_3% white
CAROLINA BLUE - 65% blue_33% white_2% magenta(ppl mite object to this. but trust me. if u just mix 50% blue and 50% white with angelus u will get a blue more on the aqua side)
LIME GREEN - 85% green_15% yellow
TIFFANY TEAL - 26 parts WHITE, 3 parts TURQUOISE, 1 part YELLOW
#11 list of mediums, additives, and varnishes
This sections will cover other fluids outside of just your standard paint. These all can be used to acheive random effects, tasks, or help improve quality of your formula. While many of these can be very helpful, make sure to use all in proper amounts recommended on the bottle labels. Overuse may result in the tampering with the overall formula. If you have any product that you can recommend, just send me a message.
Angelus Neutral - not really an additive but this stuff is very versatile. Mix it with other paints to "possibly" give it angelus-like qualities. Add it with your angelus paints to extend the quantity, thin it, or slightly lighten the shade. Can be used to as a top coat over finished paintjobs.
Angelus Duller - formula to "dull" paint and rid the shoe of excessive shine. Use 3-4 mL per 1 ounce of paint.
Createx Opaque Medium - used for Createx Transparent paints. Gives paint added opacity and slightly eliminates metallic shine.
Angelus Metallics (silver, gold, pewter, copper) - line of angelus metallic paints. Great to mix with other shades and give metallic shine and glitter.
Metal Flake - commonly used in car paints. Search for smaller flakes compatible for paints used for shoes. Creates metallic look or glitter effect. Do NOT airbrush, flakes will clog your airbrush.
Liquitex Iridescent - recommended for transparent acrylics. Adds a metallic/pearlized shine to paint.
Extender - does as it says, extends quantity of paint. Must use within time limit after adding.
Catalyst - aids in heatsetting process. Must use within time limit.
Retarder - slows down dry process of paint. Do not use more than suggested max on bottle. Too much may lead to paint being unable to dry at all.
Textile (Fabric) Medium - helps paint bond more with textile materials such as fabrics, vinyl, and of course leather. Great for adding to acrylics when painting on shirts. Available through several brands.
Liquitex Matte Medium - helps in transluceny, adhesion, and flexibility of acrylic paint. Extends the life of thin paint at the same time it improves fluidity of thicker paints used, eliminating resistance while painting and visible brush strokes.
Varnishes / Top Coats
Here a list of finishers will be listed as well as pros and cons of each. While finishes are not always necessary if proper painting has been done, they do add extra protection, and helps avoid dirt and stains that would be difficult to clean on a painted shoe.
Angelus Finisher - Top coat from Angelus line. Can be applied through brush, rag, or sprayed(recommended). Contains glossy look.
Angelus Neutral - Can be used as top coat. Also somewhat glossy. Mix with duller for matte results.
Chain Store (FootLocker/Footaction/FinishLine etc.) Finishers - Available for different shoes (leather, midsoles, suede/nubuck) in spray cans. Excellent in repelling water and dirt. Dries matte. However, requires respraying every several weeks.
Liquitex Varnishes - Available in matte, satin, gloss and high gloss. Very durable but not too flexible.
Krylon Varnish - Available in matte, satin, gloss and high gloss. Matte still attains some shine.
Krylon Triple Glass - don't know if this stuff is still in production. Not for leather. Durable on midsoles for protecting an image. No it will not prevent cracking if entire midsole is painting and then followed by this product.
Delta Ceramics - very cheap but not all too bad. Can be applied with brush, rag or airbrush. Available in matte and gloss. Matte still attains some shine.
Last edited by bLue on Mon Jan 08, 2007 12:30 pm; edited 7 times in total |
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bLue
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| Posted: Sun Jan 08, 2006 5:46 pm Post subject: |
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#12 random tips and tricks
Splattering
There are several different methods to acheive the splatter effect. The common one is simply splattering with the brush itself. Before splattering, it is recommended you tape off the areas you do not wish to get paint on.
Another method requires small coffee straws. While some fling the paint off, others are known to dip one end of the straw in paint, n blow out with the other (no sipping involved, unless you want to). For the most part, these will get you thinner, smaller splatters.
To get larger more intense splatters, an old toothbrush comes in handy. Simply apply paint to the bristles as if it were toothpaste, cork the head back, and let it fly.
Splattering can also be done with an airbrush. Special tips can be purchased or you can just learn a couple tricks by accident
I suggest you practice before doing it on a shoe. Some methods may have different results pending the amount of paint you use, distance from which you fling, flick, shoot or drip, or the actual movement itself.
Speckling
Speckling is a special type of splattering paint which requires small tiny drops or "specks" of paint. By far, the best tool for speckling is the airbrush. Lower the air pressure from your compressor and test your brush to see how it'll spray or sputter.
Glow-in-the-dark Paint
Get your hands on some glow in the dark pigment (google it. there are many many resources out there). Check before you buy though. If the pigment says it is not compatible with a waterbased solution, don't buy it. If you do, your glowing paintjob will suffer and will slowly deteriorate after time. Once you have some pigment, get your hands on some Angelus Neutral, it's great stuff. Based on my experience, the ratio of neutral to pigment varies based on the color of the pigment. Greens are the brightest therefore don't require much pigment while other colors like blues, reds, and purples are dull glows so they require more pigment. Just be careful as too much pigment will result in the paint thickening and drying faster. Test it out again to see what will get you nice even coats as well as a nice glow.
As for a top coat, most work well in protecting it but some completely stop it from glowing. Places that sell the actual glow product should also have a finish themselves.
Glow in the Dark Top Coats. Rather than paint, there are glow varnishes also available.
*NOTE* In order to acheive a proper glow, the layer underneath must be light, preferably white. The way glow in the dark products work, light is required to pass through the glow layer, and then reflect back out, creating an illumination in the process. Having a dark color under your glow layer will make this impossible to occur. Even lighter colors will affect the brightness of the glow. A white layer underneath will give you the best results.
Glow fabric is another alternative. Again, search for these. They vary in material and brightness. Some fabric are rather rigid and not suitable for the daily wear of sneakers. Some are suitable for painting or print.
Safari Print
Yes, it's simply dots, which isn't too hard. But if you look closely at real print, it can be easily screwed up if not done right. #1, it's not circles but rather ovals. #2, sizes vary. Just alternate big and small, and space them out evenly. For every big oval, there should be several smaller ones around it.
Working with Yellow
Yellow is a color that wishes to be utilized more, but it is a pain to work with. Yellow takes many coats alone.
Some ways to minimize yellow coats is to mix it with white. Your yellow may turn shades lighter so just keep mixing around. The white helps a little in patching up some problems and gives it a more opaque trait.
Another way is to use basecoats. White is the universal basecoat, every color will come off fine on top of it. A white basecoat works best when you're painting over a colored surface or over black. Apply a coat or two of white, then apply yellow above it.
Other colors can be used as basecoats as well. However, they should be in the same family as the top coat.
i.e. a light green base for a top yellow, light grey base for a silver top and so on
You should pick a base that is more opaque than the top. Refer to the transparency chart for help.
Gator Skin/Supreme
To do this you need a woodburning pen or a dremel. Study the patterns of real skin. While the supreme and tiffany style are just straight rows, real skin is not. Practice varying the shapes and sizes, they are not always uniform.
You can also put real skin on. Find the proper hides. It is hard to find the perfect one bc some are extremely thick while others are really flakey and stiff like paper. It's best to look for the perfect skin and worry about color later. You can always just soak the hide in the dye color of your choice. To apply it, just follow the same procedure if you were to attach fabric or denim.
where to obtain certain materials:
acetone - any local hardware store, it is nothing special nor expensive
angelus paint - see above
QUALITY paint brushes - any art store, best to buy upfront so you can observe quality and softness
airbrush - again artstore, some like ragshop carry cheaper models good for practicing with while places such as pearl paint carry more expensive models which i feel are unsurpassed
clear fabric (espos) - i found them at the ragshop, that is the only place i know of, they carry several varieties that range in durabilty and thickness
*be aware that these shouldn't be simply glued on, pick a material that can withstand constant creasing but still has some flexibility*
woodburner - by what i hear, ebay is the sweet 4letter word
#13 woodburning guide
as you can see, it's coming soon.
Tips/Attachments
Tips
- Keep the pen moving at all time. Pausing at a particular section will cause it to burn too deep or leave scortch marks.
- Keep your tip clean. After awhile, leather residue and carbon will build up on the tip. This will result in the pen not burning as well. Keep a piece of sandpaper by your side. Every so often, simply wipe the tip gently on the sandpaper to get rid of anything on it.
- Don't apply too much pressure. Let the heat of the woodburner do all the work. Wait until it's at it's hottest before starting. Too much pressure can cause the tips to bend and misshape.
Last edited by bLue on Mon Jan 08, 2007 12:48 pm; edited 9 times in total |
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bLue
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bLue
ANTI-POSTWHORES
Joined: May 13 2004
Posts: 7724
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Location: my own little world
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bLue
ANTI-POSTWHORES
Joined: May 13 2004
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Location: my own little world
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| Posted: Sun Jul 30, 2006 10:43 pm Post subject: |
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#17 Starting Your Own Simple Clothing Line
| Jblack4083 wrote: | Heres a small guide on some of the aspects of starting your own clothing brand. Feel free to add anything. THis is mostly knowledge i've picked up from many places and A Lot from experience.
| Jblack4083 wrote: |
Getting T-SHirts
If you're serious, i suggest you start out with only t-shirts and simple hoodies. THose can be done by getting a screen printer. You need to buy your own shirts that are UNBRANDED because no one wants a hanes tag on their 20 dollar shirt they just bought from you. Buy tags and get your tags sewn into the neck of your shirts. THen go to your local screenprinter and work out a deal where they print your shirts. THis shouldnt cost more than 5 dollars a shirt.
In the Meantime - Set up a Website
You will need a domain (www.blank.com), and some way of accepting payment (paypal). Once you set up paypal, you cna get a host and build your website. It doesnt have to be elaborate with Flash intro's and such. Just something thats presentable that you can sell your products out of. Yahoo offers good hosting and domain plans. So does bravenet.
Hoodies (are not that easy)
WHen it comes to hoodies, unless you want to pay a grip to have the whole process done for you, you have to get them custom made. FIrst you buy the material printed with your design (www.digitaltextile.com). It comes in a roll. THen you take your roll of material to a tailor (local dry cleaners / tailor), and bring an example hoodie and some practice material for him/her and get some hoodies made. THis is expensive, thats why all-over print hoodies by any company are so expensive. You can screen a simple print on the front of a hoodie but when it comes to camo or an all-over print, you wont be doing that until your company is a little more established.
Jeans and Back Pockets
TO get prints on the jeans pockets, you have to buy generic jeans (just like how you bought unbranded t-shirts). Generic jeans are going to cost you a lot just for the fact that youre going to have to buy hundreds of them wholesale. No, they dont sell them at your local wholesale district. Youre going to have to go factory direct and find a distributor that gets them straight from the factory. If you have any factories near you, you might ask for some there. Once you have the jeans, you can get a tailor to take the back pocket off, buy some denim material, and embroider what you want on the back pocket. Or you can get the marterial screened by your local screenprinter and then take it to the tailor to take the old one off and attach the new one. FOr prints, you just get those screened onto the jeans.
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| Jblack4083 wrote: |
Getting your own Tags and Labels
Go to (PM me for the site) and buy your custom tags in bulk. If you go to a wholsaler site you can get unbranded shirts that have no brand and the only tag they have is a size tag and care tag. Or if you want you can get unbranded tee's from your local wholesale district, put your tag on all of them by hiring a tailor or the people at your local dry cleaners. Then go to a screenprinter and get them done. Look in your yellow pages for a screen printer.
Know Your Market
You wouldnt sell a t-shirt with Tupac on it to a 70 year old lady.
Make sure you know your market and what they would like. How much they would pay. WHere they would buy it. etc... Cater to your specific market.
WRITE A BUSINESS PLAN!!!
Unless you're willing to write a business plan, you're not serious. All sucessful businesses started with some form of business plan. Without a plan to follow and stick to, you will end up deviating and then failing. http://www.entrepreneur.com/bizplan/0,7253,,00.html has a good guide on writing a business plan
Also, if you're business plan is good, there are many banks that will be willing to give you a loan to start your business up. SOme small organizations will be willing to give you a grant if your plan looks sucessful so a good business plan is KEY!!
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Buying Unbranded Shirts
If you're wondering "where do i find unbranded shirts", then i can tell you. Go to your local wholesale district or flea market and look around. I live in New York City and went to 28th street and broadway. THere are plenty of small shops that sell t-shirts. 24 shirts for $18.00 if you're a new customer but the give you deals if you keep coming back. Or go to www.continentalclothing.com because i hear they sell unbranded shirts. I have not bought from them myself but common word is that they sell unbranded shirts. You might also check out wholesale sites like www.ecplaza.com , www.ec21.com , and www.ioffer.com .
If you want, IM me or PM me if you have a question[/ |
quote]
_________________
FS - Nike AF1 HI Iron Man custom sz10
Team ..... = Forum Reject
A lot of people never use their initiative because no one ever told them to
Everyone repeat after me - BAAAAAAAAAAAH
Last edited by bLue on Sun Jul 30, 2006 10:48 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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| Posted: Sun Jul 30, 2006 10:44 pm Post subject: |
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#18 step by step process on creating hard-lined images
Good day kiddies. Prep those shoes and break out your fingerpaints because we're going to learn how to paint Iron Man!
Note that this is not the definite method to painting a hard-lined comic style image. Others may have different orders or different schemes. At least, I'll break down what I do which hopefully helps for those who ask.
For the tool's I'm using, I'm basically equipped with a 1/0 and 1 sized brush. The 1/0 is used for fine details and lines while the 1 is used for coloring since it can handle small areas.
For lines, keep your brushes damp at ALL TIMES. I've heard some of you guys are drying your brushes so it gets stiff and pointy. When you do that, it'll be like those olden time pens. You know the one with the feather, the ones used to sign the Declaration of Independence. You'll be constantly dipping just to do one line because the bristles basically won't hold any paint.
Thanks to artist Jim Lee for these images I'll be applying.
1. After your shoe has been prepped, we're going to start with the basic outline. Here, I'm doing it with black paint on a white background because it's easier for you guys to see and also I didn't know what color I was going to paint behind him until last minute. It IS better if you paint whatever color you're going to use in the background first before the image. In that case, you don't have to worry about painting around the image. And when you do paint over another color, instead of black use white. It's a lot easier to cover up when you make a mistake.
So whether you're using black or white, simply outline the basics of the image. Don't worry about lineweights since you'll be covering up most of it and you'll clean it all up with more at the end. Don't worry about hatching or stippling. Just concentrate on the major shapes that'll help you seperate the colors.
2. I like to work from lighter colors to darker. If you get a stray mark with a lighter color, it's easily overlapped by the darker one.
Here, I'm simply painting the areas that are going to be gold. Just like colorways, you still have to paint in layers.
3. Same as step 2 except with red. As you add more colors, you really have to start being careful. If you get any dark colored paint over another section, sometimes it's better to paint over the messup with white and then go back with the lighter paint. Trust me, it'll cover up faster.
After this step. you should have painted everything with solid colors.
4. Now we're giving Iron Man some shine simply with some white paint. The trick is to get just a little bit of white on. To do this, dip your brush in the paint. Then just wipe a couple times on an old rag to get rid of most of it. Take what's left and brush on to the shoe. Now there still may be too much of a contrast between white and the other color. Simply mix a little white with the background color on a pallette and brush around the white you just painted.
5. Now, that we got the shine on, time to give him some shading. Since it is a hard-lined drawing, it'll just be like painting shapes with no need to blend into the color behind it. To shade the gold and the red, I simply took those colors and mixed in a little bit of brown. Try using other dark colors other than black. Mixing in black at times can make it look "dirty". Once you're done with the color gradients, time for the final outlines.
6. Before addind black, try adding some more shine with hard white lines. This is different from step 4. They are simply hard white lines that not only give some added shine, but helps distinguish shapes and body parts from each other. Use it sparingly.
Finally, go over the entire image with black. This is the time to settle down and be as neat as possible. Covering up black stray marks is a pain in the tush. Do your final hatching or stippling for shading and you're done. Iron Man is now ready to kick some ass.
Now that was fun,right? Let's do it again but with more color.
Here, we'll give Iron Man a cool laser effect. This means more color gradients based on where the laser glows.
1. Again, start with your basic outline. Nothing new here.
2. Now, Just paint the first layer of yellow. I'm using yellow instead of gold to make it look like it's reflecting off of the laser. Also, I'm painting the middle of the laser. Just like the first guide, we're going to give him some shine. Except this time, it's going to be with yellow.
3. Next, we're adding a yellow-orange color around the yellow. The trick to blending comic images with solid colors is to slowly change the colors.
4. To finish up step 3, I'm basically going around the yellow-orange with regular orange. You can see the difference in the picture.
5. After solid orange, red is the next color. In the picture, you can see how I blended by simply using the solid colors of yellow, yellow-orange, orange, and red. Also, you'll see that just like colorways, I have to paint in layers.
6. I finished up the red with 2 more coats. After that, I add some red dots in the middle of the laser for effect.
7. Time for shading. For the yellow areas, I used an even lighter yellow-orange mix. For the red area, I used a red-burgandy mix. I also took some of that burgandy and added more of those random laser spots.
8. I use more hard white shading. Since I shaded most of the areas with yellow already, I use even less white lines than I did in the first guide above. I basically used the white on the areas well away from the lighting of the laser.
9. Finish up with the final black outline and you're done. Iron Man returns even badder than before.
_________________
FS - Nike AF1 HI Iron Man custom sz10
Team ..... = Forum Reject
A lot of people never use their initiative because no one ever told them to
Everyone repeat after me - BAAAAAAAAAAAH
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| Posted: Sun Jul 30, 2006 10:45 pm Post subject: |
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#19 Shoe Deconstruction/Working with Clear Vinyl
Before starting, there are numerous ways of taking apart and reattaching the shoe. Each proce | |
